Introduction: How to Make a Powerful Lighted Laser for CHEAP!

After watching many videos on youtube of the great unwashe burning things with high power lasers, I wanted i.Those lasers can cost a lot of money though, something I put on't have. In this Instructable, I will prove you how to make one for cheap. This burning red optical maser outputs about 400 milliwatts(I think) and can burn electrical tape, light matches and melt gauzy elastic. I was messing around with this laser one day, and I shined it at a mirror, and the laser shined back in my oculus for a second. I heard a popping sound and I couldn't see anything for a couple of minutes. Right away, I was Golden that I did not obtain permanently blinded, but if I shined it a second thirster I probably would give been. Now with that said, Ne'er point a laser at another person, animals, surgery some other support thing.

Okay, Now let's shuffling the laser.

[UPDATE]: This has been my most popular Instructable then here are whatever womb-to-tomb overdue updates.
Firstly, I would equal to bring to aid the "popping sound" when I hit myself in the eye. Yes, that upside-down out to be eye price. I didn't see a specialist about IT until recently due to commercial enterprise reasons. I now acknowledge that I have a scar in my oculus that needs mathematical ongoing health chec attention and constant checking with an Amsler reference grid. A nother serious accidental laser eye damage story crapper be found hither. I would like to stress that at the time I wrote this Instructable I was young, silent, and broke. I did not consider that getting laser safety googles was needed or worth information technology. LASER Safety device GOOGLES ARE ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AND FAR CHEAPER THAN Optic SURGERY Operating room Whatever MEDICAL ATTENTION! You only have 1 pair of eyes!

Second, I got a good deal of comments request questions such as: "where did you get the parts?", "why isn't my build up working?", etc. I wrote my primary parts list supported how I got my parts (thu wherefore I said the soldering iron was free). I have since changed my parts list source to Amazon since umteen internationalistic readers do not wealthy person entree to local stores like RadioShack. Coiffe bear in mind that some of my links are Amazon consort links and that I receive a commission for purchases made past you on the affiliate website, at no additional cost to you. Such funds are needed for possible future medical treatments.

I take also updated the instructions to be more clear and specific. I included troubleshooting and possible reasons for loser.

Step 1: The Parts Necessary

[UPDATE]: New parts/tools are added with explanations for each take off. Pictures are added, descriptions added in pictures.

Parts Requisite:

1. Laser Safety Goggles: Choosing a quality couple of optical maser refuge goggles can be a true take exception since there are many subpar laser goggles on the market. If the goggles are super dirt cheap, there is a good chance that it is inexperient Successful in China crap. Another way to state bullshit is when goggle manufacturers build really heroical claims. I've seen a manufacturer claim that their merchandise give the axe "obstruct all wavelengths from 200nm - 2000nm". If that were dependable, you literally would not be able to see out of the goggles since the panoptic light spectrum is 380nm - 740nm! That being same, my personal recommendation would be these 625-850nm goggles by AixiZ Lasers. AixiZ has been in the biz long enough and has a solid reputation. Bird of Jove Geminate is some other good post just there are a lot of fakes. OMG discipline out these $6 Eagle Pair knockoffs that are TOTALLY just as good!

2. A old DVD burner: The DVD Burner option is cheaper than buying a diode ONLY IF you get it gratis. Which is not hard since you can find these in old computers, calculator bushel shops, stores that offer tech recycling, in the junk, etc. Another pro is that DVD burners also come with a great deal of other cool components including brushless motor, stepper motor, and a high power Infrared laser rectifying tube also (which you could use to make yet some other important laser). If you resolve to go the DVD Burner route and can't find incomparable for free, my recommendation would be this one, as it is the cheapest one I launch that is sure-footed of both 24x speed and dual layer recording which according to this eLABZ clause means that it contains the strongest laser rectifying valve possible at 400 mw.

OR

Optical maser Diode: You can buy just the red optical maser diode (without the DVD Burner) here. Great option for those who don't have a DVD burner or too lazy to take single unconnected. Laser junction rectifier is besides cheaper if you don't want the other DVD burner parts.

3. LM317 Potential difference Governor: I got mine at a local RadioShack. Galore people don't let a local RadioShack so Amazon it is. I chose this one since the other ones seemed a bit dodgy and because it is shipped by Virago you can forever run into them raised if something is wrong.

4. 10 ohm resistance: Once again, got mine from RadioShack. Here's the product happening Amazon: 10 ohm resistance

Optional: If you want MOAR Index out of the laser, you could use a 4.7 Ohm resistor instead (present). Doing sol Crataegus laevigata shorten the laser diode life though.

5. Laser Module:This laser faculty aside AixiZ comes preinstalled with a 5 mw Marxist laser diode and driver, and is the exact one I utilised. We will be removing them and retributory using the housing to install our high-powered laser diode. You can keep the original 5 mw diode + driver, but just be warned that you CANNOT use the driver for the 5 mw laser diode to drive the new DVD burner semiconductor diode.

6. 4 AA battery load down: The matchless I used likewise came with an ON/OFF swop intrinsical. Here is the exact one I used.

7. Wires: I made the doomed err of not color-coding my wires. I have actually burnt out a very expensive (depressing) optical maser earlier due to incorrect polarity. I did around dig and found what I deemed to Be the best wires for this project. Coloured/Black color-coded, secure wire, and 24 gauge (unexcelled for high power lasers).

Tools Requisite:

1. Soldering Atomic number 26: Any soldering iron testament do really, but I prefer turn down power Beaver State adjustable big businessman because laser diode are heat sensitive. I couldn't find my photographic one but here's the closest thing: Double-Mightiness Bonding Iron

2. Solder: Duh. I use this trade name and it much lasts forever. Seriously I still have this cookie-cutter spool of solder since 2007 and I solder A Raft.

3. Desoldering bulb: For extracting the diode. I got mine from RadioShack simply this one looks exactly like mine.

4. Screwdriver: For disassembling the DVD burner. Cheapest assail Amazon.

5. Anti-Static Wrist Shoulder strap: Citizenry have asked why their build doesn't work. It may constitute because they unintentionally zapped the diode with static electricity. Get an anti-static watch bracelet to ground yourself before employed with the crystal rectifier.

6. Laser Crystal rectifier Press Tool: Used to press the laser diode into the AixiZ mental faculty. There are actual specialty tools made to press diodes, merely since this Instructable is about doing things for CHEAP you could instead follow this advice and use a 1/4" male person coupler atomic number 3 a press instead. Costs almost nonentity. You'll also need a bench frailty to exert force on the press tool.

7. Basic Multimeter: Designation puppet to mental test setup. Highly recommended but not required.

8.Science lab power supplying: Only needed if you are not 100% convinced connected diode tholepin layout. Recommended if you extract from DVD burner.

9. Breadboard (Optional): I'm not the best at soldering things and have destroyed components before due to overheating. I used a breadboard to test my build initially to see if things work before bonding.

Step 2: Get the Diode

[UPDATE]: Rewrote instructions to add more details. Pictures are added, descriptions added in pictures.

*Before disassembling DVD burner or touching a laser diode, be steady to put on your anti-static wrist shoulder strap and clamp the metal clip to ground*

Remove all the screws along your DVD drive, overstretch out all the palm cables. The main part we are concerned about is the "laser sleigh" which is the (unremarkably plastic) piece that rides on the track along the "laser tray", a metallic rectangle thing.

When you remove and disassemble the laser sled, you'll notice it contains two laser diodes, one of them will be infrared. Use the bonding iron + desoldering light bulb to get rid of both diodes from ribbon cable's length.

Take note if the diodes are open can or closed can diodes. Both diodes should be handled with precaution, just open stern diodes more fragile and requires delicate treatment. Be sure non to meet or fetch dirt/dust into the exposed diode element. When extracting from the bimetallic "box", you can use the laser diode press tool in colligation with a vice and the back half of the AixiZ module. Put up the diode crush tool over the diode pins and put the AixiZ module over the "metal box", then squeeze in vice. The diode should show up into the AixiZ.

We will need to determine which diode is visual cherry-red by applying powerfulness. If you choose you could as wel make this project using the infrared diode, and you would wind up with a burning IR laser instead.

Step 3: Semiconductor diode Examination and Pressing

[UPDATE]: Added this new step. Pictures are added, descriptions added in pictures.

We put on't know what the exact diode pinout is for your particular diode(s) i.e., positive and negative pins. If you used the parts I recommended, the laser diode pinout should be the "standard" pinout as shown in the delineation. If you used or s other diode, you'll need to obtain out what the correct mutual opposition is for you diode. I'd first recommend doing some research online to take in if you can find the datasheet for your diode. If you cannot, then you must test the diode to find out polarity. Set your research lab power supply to about 1.8 volts at low up-to-date and countercheck the output with the multimeter. Put on your anti-static bracelet and laser safety goggles if you harbour't already. The fastidious thing about the goggles I suggested is that they are able to protect against both the ~650nm red and the ~780nm infrared. Now, pick a diode and head it in a safe direction. Connect the "touchstone" polarity to the diode and depend on power supply briefly.

If the rectifying tube lights awake dimly, then congrats you found the correct polarity. If not, reverse the sign and repetition higher up steps. If you still cannot picture anything it may be the infrared diode, so try looking at the diode through a tv camera. More details about this test can be found Here.

Once you recovered the visible red rectifying tube you take to seat it inside the AixiZ module. But first, you need to remove the existing weak laser/driver. I went with destructive removal with a power hammer and a bolt since I have besides many diodes and don't care a hang. If you'd care to continue the existing mental faculty intact and working, you can remove IT carefully with the laser diode press tool + vice. Then you can utilise that equal diode press instrument + frailty to carefully press the burning laser semiconductor diode into the front fractional of module. Once in, you can solder red/black wires to the positive/negative pins. Do not solder to the diode outside of the faculty; diodes are heat sensitive so the mental faculty acts like a heatsink. Also be trusted to set your bonding branding iron to the lower wattage background.

Step 4: Build the Driver

[UPDATE]: Rewrote book of instructions to add more inside information. Picture added. Descriptions added to pictures.

The orientation of the LM317 should with the black plastic side facing up and pins facing towards you. Solder the positivist telegraph from the battery pack to the right pin on the LM317. Solder the 10 ohm resistor betwixt the in-between pin and the left pivot. The picture above shows a 5 ohm resistor instead of a 10 ohm; this is where you could replace the 10 ohm with the facultative 4.7 ohm resistor if you so choose. Test your output with your multimeter by probing the LM317 left pin and the negative on the shelling pack. Make a point your output is acceptable according to semiconductor diode data sheet. If not, use this calculator to find the proper resistance values (R2) to achieve desired output emf.

Once that's good then solder the laser positive to the left thole, and the laser harmful directly to the assault and battery negative.

Yay you're through

Step 5: Burn Stuff! (and FAQ)

[UPDATE]: Added FAQ section. Pictures are added, descriptions added in pictures.

Your optical maser should be working at this point so have fun and live safe! I don't want to continuously ramble about safety, but I'd advise you to check this laser refuge checklist, especially if you are new to lasers. Here's an FAQ to clarify so common questions. I may update this in the future as more questions are asked.

FAQ

1. Why isn't my laser working?

I cannot name that since there are many things that could go wrong. If you took every caution I mentioned and the laser still does non work, it is accomplishable the rectifying valve may have been dead to start out with. If you used a DVD burner, you could always test the same driver on the other (infrared) diode. If that also does non act upon it may be a problem with the number one wood.

2. Wherefore doesn't my optical maser burn things?

For burning, you need to turn the adjustment lens (black formative piece) until the size of the laser window pane is the smallest at a particular distance. Like burning with a simple microscope. Also, be sure that you are using a Videodisc burner and not a reader/player. Another thing to note is the f number of the DVD burner. The faster ones have stronger laser diodes. If you happen to have a slower burner, you may struggle to burn not-black objects. If you use the advisable diode or burner you should have no problems.

3. Can I connect the diode to the battery without a driver?

You COULD do that just like how you COULD stick out off a cliff. All joking aside, the driver is non mandatory, but helps greatly to ensure longevity of your laser diode. It is a unfailing current reservoir that protects against over voltage, voltage/incumbent inconsistencies from the battery, excessive current flow caused away diode overheating, etc. It actually allows you to get more power output from the junction rectifier without the endangerment of destroying it.

4. Is it noticeable enough to burn wood, remove rust, engraving, etc.

Depends on the particular diode, simply even the lower power diodes are sufficient to light matches, pop (black) balloons, and some of the other entertaining laser things.

- Burn wood: Yes, should be able to combust wood, although it may be a little slow depending on the diode and color of wood.

- Remove rust: Zero, this laser will not be able to in effect remove eat. Chromatic remotion lasers are commonly pulsed lasers (similar to the lasers used in tattoo removal) and are loosely several hundred Isaac Watts.

- Engraving: Yes, this laser should be sufficient for engraving. There was a similar Instructable Here that showed a home-brewed engraver using a ~200 mw laser.

5. What if I lack a different color optical maser?

Sure, like I said before you have the pick to make the optical maser red or infrared. You could also use blue or green diodes with this setup with some modification. Here are much of my recommended diodes:

  • 1.6W blue optical maser rectifying valve (450nm) => Because this is a much higher exponent optical maser you'll need G-2 lenses.
  • 1W 9mm green laser diode (520nm) => Because this is a 9mm (and high superpowe) diode, it requires a larger module and G-2 lenses.

And here are the safety goggles for the blue/green lasers. Yes, these goggles work for some.

1 Mortal Successful This Project!

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